Getting the height of the first layer of your
3D print perfect plays a huge part in whether or not the print will actually come out successful. So today, you’ll learn what a good first
layer looks like and how to achieve it. AprintaPro reached out to me for this sponsored
videos series to be featured on their PrintaGuide platform. Launching in January, it’ll be home to 3D
printing tips, tricks and guides. Check out AprintaPro and the PrintaGuide site
at the links in the video description below! Essentially, what you are trying to accomplish
with a properly set nozzle height is good adhesion of your printed part to the printbed. There are a few other important bits to that,
which we’ll look at later, but let’s first start out with the nozzle height, or, more
accurately, setting the correct zero position for the Z-axis. 3D printers don’t have a
way of sensing when the nozzle touches your build surface, but rely on an endstop or a
separate sensor to probe the bed. For both cases, you usually need to manually
set the zero position. The exact procedure differs from printer to
printer, but the general idea is usually the same: Use a thin piece of paper for stiffer
beds and a thicker piece, like a business card, for springy beds and adjust the endstop
or sensor offset until you can feel a slight resistance from sliding the card around when
the printer moves to the zero position for the Z axis. Make sure the nozzle is clean and, ideally,
heated up so that any boogers will get wiped away by the paper. Start in the center of the bed for a first
rough adjustment, and if your printer does not have a sensor-based autotramming or autoleveling
feature, make your way around the bed and repeat for each adjustment point. Move the printhead as close as possible to
the adjusters and tweak them until you get an even resistance at each of them. The fine tuning to get the height will need
to happen with a few test prints. Of course, for this way of adjusting the nozzle
height, you should be sure that your 3D printer is neither over-extruding nor under-extruding,
as that will throw off the look of the layers. So start a simple print, and watch the first
layer being laid down. If there are visible gaps between the individual
lines, you need to set the nozzle closer to the bed, if you can see the nozzle digging
through previous lines and can’t see each line clearly when you look at the bottom of
the printed part, try setting the distance a bit higher. To check how well the entirety of your print
bed is aligned, check out the sample files linked in the video description. Some people recommend going for a bit of an
oversquashed look, but i generally prefer the height set perfectly and then working
with the following tricks to increase adhesion if necessary. First off, make sure the bed surface is in
good working order. If you’re printing onto bare glass or a
specialised print surface like PEI, Buildtak or even unheated bluetape, give it a quick
wipedown with some alcohol to remove any greasy spots. If you’re using gluestick, Printafix or
another wipe-on or spray-on adhesive, you can usually freshen that up with a damp towel
or by simply applying a fresh layer altogether. Also, use your slicer’s settings to increase
the extrusion width and height for the first layer only – this will have the extruder pumping
out proportionally more material, which not only really smooshes the plastic against the
bed more, but also makes the first layer more resistant to little adjustment errors – so
with that, there’s really no need to get the bed perfectly flat and bump-free down
to the last 10µm. Typically, you can go as far as two times
the nozzle size for width and a full nozzle size for layer height, but this is pretty
extreme and will likely overstress your extruder. To counteract, try going slower for the first
layer only. This is also a good idea in general if you’re
struggling to get the first layer sticking well. Printing at a slower speed will give the filament
more time to heat up and also warm up the bed surface a bit with the radiated heat from
the heater block, making it easier for the first layer to stick. To get a similar effect, try raising the temperature
of the heated bed and the nozzle by 5 to 10°C just for the first layer – many material and
bed surface combinations will stick much better just with that bit of extra temperature. Keep in mind that many cheap heated beds will
bow up or down as they heat and cool, so when using this tip, keep an eye out for the second
layer as well and use a constant temperature for the heated bed if you see the second layer
getting overstuffed or separating from the first one. Alright, so i hope this video is helpful to
you. If you liked it, give it a thumbs up, consider
subscribing to the channel, and because Youtube is being sorta weird about it, remember to
also click that bell next to the subscribe button or you might end up missing some videos
altogether. Also check out the affiliate links from the
video description to shop on Amazon, eBay, Matterhackers and iGo3D, those don’t cost
you a single penny extra, or if you want to support this channel with a spare dollar or
two, head over to Patreon and get access to monthly Q&A hangouts and more. And that’s it for today, thanks for watching,
and I’ll see you in the next one.

Basics: 5 ways of getting your 3D prints to stick!
Tagged on:                                                         

100 thoughts on “Basics: 5 ways of getting your 3D prints to stick!

  • December 23, 2016 at 3:52 am
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    Thanks again for another awesome video, Tom!

    Reply
  • December 23, 2016 at 4:48 am
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    Thomas, I used to print on glass, PLA is OK, but never got it to stick with ABS, I even pushed the bed to 130 degree, still did not work. Also tried kapton tape, blue tape, glue stick, spray, still not satisfied with results. Then I tried to 3D print on Acrylic Sheet (got it from here: https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.clear-acrylic-sheet—220-inch-x-18-inch-x-24-inch.1000126448.html ), and I LOVE IT!! You have to print on a cold bed because the sheet bends a lot with heat. My prints stick to it really well! I broke a few parts because I could not remove them. You have to get the first layer perfect, if it's too squished, you can't remove the part, it becomes one with the Acrylic Sheet. ABS sticks well, but corners still bend, so brim solves the problem. But considering that it's on cold bed, I think it's awesome! Please TRY IT!! TRY IT !! TRY IT !!

    Reply
  • December 23, 2016 at 5:25 am
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    Hey Tom, I've been thinking about build material and right now waiting for PC plate 2T and 3T and depending on the rigidity and flexibility, I will apply PEI sheet on top of one of the PC. what do you think about this idea? I thought of putting PEI on glass but wanted to bend the plate to take the build off once its done.

    Reply
  • December 23, 2016 at 5:28 am
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    really great advice! unfortunately I own a davinci 1.1 plus which has two screws on the back left and back right, and one screw in the middle front, so you have to imagine moving a triangle under a square to really adjust the bed at all. I'm not sure why they chose this way instead of putting a screw on all four sides of the bed lol.

    Reply
  • December 23, 2016 at 5:31 am
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    my nozzle when cold is .1 above bed. sensor set to that.
    I use .2 layers with first being 60% height. does OK I guess I'll try a higher layer and see if your recommendation works via S3D

    Reply
  • December 23, 2016 at 8:11 am
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    Thomas
    Your advice make my life easier !! thank you so much!!!!

    Reply
  • December 23, 2016 at 8:31 am
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    Awesome!! I have been having issues with stick.

    Reply
  • December 23, 2016 at 9:11 am
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    Haha, printing the low poly bulbasaur. I've printed that enough times to know what the first layers look like

    Reply
  • December 23, 2016 at 12:04 pm
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    Thanks for tips.
    The bell has disappeared!

    Reply
  • December 23, 2016 at 12:55 pm
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    Any reason you removed the video about over-volting of the prusa power supply.

    Reply
  • December 23, 2016 at 1:36 pm
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    I tried a bunch of surfaces and treatments. In the end I found that bed level and bed warping caused the most fails. Those in check I installed a level probe and Buildtak and never looked back.

    Reply
  • December 23, 2016 at 6:27 pm
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    Great video

    Reply
  • December 23, 2016 at 7:03 pm
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    I went from a heated glass bed with hair spray, (Messy!) to using Elmer's Glue Stick.
    It worked, but I started pulling chips from the borosilicate glass and my bed began to look like the moon.

    Finally, I tried a sheet of PEI and not only did it cover the craters in the glass, but worked wonders for ABS sticking to the bed.
    I was printing large objects that would go beyond the heating element under the glass.
    The temperature would drop drastically beyond the element and I was getting bed separation.
    The PEI solved that. It seems to keep ABS stuck to the bed at lower temps. Even down to 70º C.

    Reply
  • December 26, 2016 at 1:17 pm
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    Old tricks but always good to know, be reminded of and for others to find out about.
    If you see it and still regually use glue sticks, try Elmer's 'disappearing purple' as it seems to work better than the normal stuff.
    (Switched from Uhu to that when there was a shortage some time bacl. Don't like the smell and I liked that the Uhu was German, but the purple one outperforms. The normal not so much. At least on glass with 100c first layer printing ABS)
    Only thing I've never found out how to get to stick is 'FlexPLA'. That sticks to /nothing/. Closest is buildtak running hot.)

    Reply
  • December 26, 2016 at 2:21 pm
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    Kann nur empfehlen sich eine Pertinaxplatte zu kaufen, die anzuschleifen und ab und zu mal mit Alkohol zu entfetten. Seit dem habe ich keine Probleme mehr mit warping und die hält ewig 😀 .

    Reply
  • December 29, 2016 at 3:03 am
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    Great video!

    Reply
  • December 30, 2016 at 10:15 am
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    Hello. Where can i find the stl for the model that you use in the video?

    Reply
  • January 1, 2017 at 5:54 am
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    I am absolutely loving these sponsored videos. Helpful information for everyone, not just the sponsor.

    Reply
  • January 5, 2017 at 3:40 pm
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    Correct me if I'm wrong(and I really hope I am), but the settings First layer width, First layer bed temperature and First layer nozzle temperature are non-existent in Cura?

    Reply
  • January 6, 2017 at 11:13 pm
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    Hey Tom, I've been printing directly on glass now for about 2 months without any(ANY) adhesives. It occurred to me that there is no better bond than nature, so I replaced my borocilite glass with a 1/4" mirror plate I got from the hardware store, then I gave it a nice static charge with a piece of silk; rubbing it back/forward in a single direction. It holds better than anything I've tried so far! You do need to give it a little time to even the mirror temperature, and it is definitely breeze sensitive, but other than that, it works perfect every time! It works for pla and PETG but I have not tried ABS(yet) You should try it! also, send me some ABS!!

    Reply
  • January 7, 2017 at 11:54 pm
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    Try this, it's cheap but very efficient.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/272499824622?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649?

    Reply
  • January 8, 2017 at 7:20 pm
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    Hey Thomas, Im totally new to 3D Printing and thinking about getting one.
    Do you have a good model in mind?

    Im currently set on the Renkforce RF1000 from conrad, since anything above 1400€ is just too much for me.
    And do you have a complete guide somewhere, how to get started on 3D Printing?

    And do you have a forum of some sort where I can get informations?

    Thanks in advance,

    a fellow german who wants to get into 3D printing 😉

    Reply
  • January 18, 2017 at 3:54 am
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    My first printer was the FlashForge Dreamer, and several recommend a business card, which was hit and miss. By profession I am a high end tool and die automation master craftsman. Since I also used to teach at National Oilwell Varco I decided to stop using paper and use a .002 Mititoyo gauge shim. This not only did the trick, but I have to wait until everything is cool or I will pull the Kapton tape off the bed with the part. I've also managed to accidentally cut thru the tape even with the blade bevel side down. Like you say first layer is everything.

    Reply
  • February 4, 2017 at 12:17 pm
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    good thing I've got a feeler gauge

    Reply
  • February 10, 2017 at 6:40 pm
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    Why didn't I found this video when I started printing? xD Really helpfull man thank you ;D

    Reply
  • February 12, 2017 at 8:40 pm
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    i don't understand the word at 3:00
    with what can i freshen it up?

    does anybody understand the word after "freshen it up with […]" ??

    Reply
  • February 16, 2017 at 3:18 pm
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    why cant they use the stepper motors to detect when it touches the bed?

    Reply
  • February 24, 2017 at 8:22 am
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    hello thomas, i have a question. i want to use your method to calibrate my first layer, but how would i print only that first layer? I'm using repetierhost to control the printer and slic3r to slice my prints, but no clue where to find the setting to only print one layer?

    Reply
  • February 24, 2017 at 11:10 pm
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    are you using glue stick with pla on mk2 !

    Reply
  • February 26, 2017 at 8:48 pm
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    Absolutely what I need. You're a mind reader Thomas. (My prints have ALL come out as a gummy mess stuck to the nozzle of my printer.) I just tried again I am getting VERY DISCOURAGED[1]. I just have a mess of stringy hot (190°C) filament dangling from the nozzle and bugger all stuck to the heated (70°C) bed. I hope to HELL that I can learn how to do this.

    1] you have no idea of the curse words that got replace by that ALL CAPS expression.

    Reply
  • March 8, 2017 at 9:15 pm
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    What is a sure fire way to get the first layer to stick to aluminum bed? I want a very strong adhesion.

    Reply
  • March 17, 2017 at 12:12 am
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    PLA + GLUE STICK 100% ADHESION. THKS

    Reply
  • March 26, 2017 at 9:47 pm
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    Thanks for doing this video. Glad when experts share tips like this.

    Reply
  • March 27, 2017 at 3:38 am
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    Definitely my favorite 3D printing channel. Keep up the good work!

    Reply
  • April 5, 2017 at 12:14 am
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    So it's best to use a bigger first layer height? Was wondering why I couldn't get the print to stick it just kept rolling of the glass layer height set to 0.2 mm and then I tried 0.1 mm and still no luck. Then I went to 0.35 mm and it started to stick so should I use a thicker layer height for the first layer? I've also ordered some buildtak sheets as printer didn't come with tape or anything so figured I'll give buildtak a try.

    Reply
  • April 10, 2017 at 4:53 pm
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    Brennspiritus? You aren't german, are you?

    Reply
  • April 11, 2017 at 5:50 pm
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    I've used a glass build plate w/PCB heater for nearly five years and I've used painter's tape, alcohol, etc. for improving bed adhesion. However, early on, distilled white vinegar was recommended to me and it's never let me down. Before each print, I simple saturate a small portion of a rag and wipe the entire surface. Using a dry portion of the rag, I wipe the surface dry until it literally squeaks. As they say, squeaky clean. Where many struggle with warping, corner adhesion with ABS prints, I've no issues like that. This technique also works for PLA.

    Reply
  • April 12, 2017 at 7:19 pm
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    This is without a doubt the best video discussing print bed adhesion. Thank you Thomas!

    Reply
  • April 22, 2017 at 1:59 pm
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    dont your filaments go bad just sitting there on the wall???

    Reply
  • April 28, 2017 at 5:44 pm
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    Klasse Tipps, kurz und knackig !

    Reply
  • May 3, 2017 at 2:08 am
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    Really helpful, Thomas! Thank You!

    Reply
  • May 9, 2017 at 12:45 pm
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    is there a tutorial on how to get your parts to not stick so well?  buildtak issues XD   i can lift the printer by the part it printed (i do not don't worry)

    Reply
  • May 23, 2017 at 3:13 pm
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    85% finished vase…
    Printhead hits a blob…
    tears the piece off the bed and shits all over it…
    fml…

    Reply
  • June 7, 2017 at 7:18 pm
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    #6: Use PETG filament

    Reply
  • June 26, 2017 at 5:30 pm
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    what's wrong if it doesn't print properly, but the filament comes out as a string?

    Reply
  • July 5, 2017 at 8:38 pm
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    You cannot imagine how much you helped a newbie with this video. I was very close to throw the printer out of window. Now printing my abs 20mm test cube with a bottle of soda and tears 🙂

    Reply
  • August 22, 2017 at 7:21 pm
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    I have an print bed sticker and sometimes the filament (especially ABS) does not stuck. So I use hair gel and brush it on the bed. It works for me. Greetings from the Netherlands!

    Reply
  • September 2, 2017 at 2:25 am
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    the distance of the nozzle and bed is depend on the layer height ?

    Reply
  • September 2, 2017 at 9:41 pm
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    Thank you so much Thomas! I've almost chucked my printer out of the window because my prints wouldn't stick to the build plate. Your videos help me so much!

    Reply
  • September 23, 2017 at 4:21 am
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    i use lighter fluid at 60 degrees and wipe it off with a cloth. works like a charm

    Reply
  • October 18, 2017 at 10:06 pm
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    Hi Tom

    I have a Folgertech FT-5 printer. If the printer is setup good then its a very nice printer.
    My 1st layer is sticking very well to my glassplate with a sheet of capton & some hairspray.
    Also my BLTouch did work like magic. It took a long time to find out how to use it but now it's working very well.

    My 1st layer sticks very good to the bed. However i do have another problem.
    My support is not sticking to the baselayers.
    The main structure (the part itself) prints very well but the support is not sticking in all places on the baselayer (raft or any flat printed part).
    There are parts of the support that do stick but after a while the nozle drags the support lose. That's when i get garbage.
    These are my settings:
    Filament:PetG, Nozle:0.4mm, Multiplier:1.0
    Temps: Nozle:220 c, Bed:60 c., Fan:0% on 1st layer then at 100%.
    Primary Layer : LayerHeight:0.1500, Top/Bottomlayers:4, OutlineShells:3(Inside-Out),
    1st Layer : Height:90%, With:100%, Speed:50%
    Additions: Skirt: 2 layers, offset:0 (directly to part), Outlines: 15 (about 6mm). (So on the edge of the print there is a 0.3mm thick layer of 0.6mm outside the print. This acts as a sort of raft and works very well). So i don't use a raft if not needed.
    Infill: Full Honicomb, Concentric, Interior Fill Percentage:10%, Outline Overlap: 15%, Infill Extrusion With:100%, Min.Infill Length:5mm, Print Sparse Infill Every:1 layers, Incl. Solid Diaphragm every:20 layers [active], Print every infill angle on each layer:[active]
    Support: 20%, Extra Inflation Distance:2mm, Dense Support Layers:10, Dense Infill Perc.: 80%, Print support after every: 1 layers, Support Type:Normal, Support Pillar Resolution:10mm, Max.Overhang Angle:45deg., Angles: 0-45-135.

    I hope these settings are enough to see where it goes wrong. If you need more info please ask.

    Can you, or anyone else please help me?

    Thank you

    Reply
  • October 31, 2017 at 2:54 am
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    Use the Glass Build Plate Wizard to make prints stick to printing platform and stop prints from curling/warping. Go to www.ez3d.eu to get the best 3D printing adhesive solution. Solves all first layer adhesion problems and prevents prints from warping.

    Reply
  • November 10, 2017 at 6:05 pm
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    i go as low as i can get away with on my anet a8, It has a glass bed, and the first layer is so thin It is transparent, my prints stick very well and look amazing, but It took 7 months of fiddling on my anet till i became a master at it

    Reply
  • November 21, 2017 at 6:29 pm
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    WRONG The correct way is this: Home the nozzle. Heat up the bed & nozzle. Measure the paper thickness (this is important). Then move Z up from 0 to the paper height. Then do the bed leveling as shown in the video. This way the nozzle Z zero position is at bed level and not a paper thickness above the bed. This small difference will make thin printed objects more accurate in thickness. 🙂

    Reply
  • November 25, 2017 at 11:02 pm
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    One way to make the prints stick too, is to aply normal glue from a gluestick to the area where the print is printed,but not too much. I know it sounds weird but trust me it works fine!

    Reply
  • December 14, 2017 at 12:34 pm
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    This actually solved my printing problem, many thanks Thomas!

    Reply
  • December 14, 2017 at 8:53 pm
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    Sanding the glass plate with a grain400 sanding paper works well for me.
    Print sticks perfectly to the heated bed.

    Reply
  • January 21, 2018 at 2:32 am
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    I use water diluted Tea Tree oil shampoo in a spray bottle to scrub down the print bed with the rough side of a dish washer / scrubber. It cuts through the dry embedded glue stick on the print bed really well, making it a new sticky surface without having to pile on more glue over and over. It sort of allows you to re-use the glue that's already dried on your print bed and also seems to provide a stronger flatter surface bond when mixed with glue stick, than regular glue stick alone. It's working extremely well. Just printed something with no raft and custom supports at max speed and its come out fine. ( apart from not having a thick enough top layer. Still trying to get the optima print orientation. )

    Reply
  • January 21, 2018 at 4:03 pm
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    I don't normally comment on videos, but this one has saved me after months of frustration with non-hatchbox PLA. Wiped my bed with acetone and over extruded the first layer, and it worked flawlessly. You da real MVP!

    Reply
  • February 15, 2018 at 11:56 pm
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    I should adjust nozzle high when in auto home or during printing? I am asking because nozzle is in different height after auto home compared to first layer hight while printing. So I pullout filament and start printing, after a few seconds I stop the print and then check with the paper if it make any resistance and then I adjust Z offset in printer settings. So my question is if I am doing it correctly or I should check the height after auto home, not in accrual printing?

    Reply
  • February 22, 2018 at 1:51 am
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    great info useful as always.

    Reply
  • March 25, 2018 at 8:09 am
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    I am using CURA software at the moment, is SLIC3R better? Do you have any opinions on this?

    Judging from your video it seems that SLIC3R seems to give you more print control or is this more to do with the 3D printer that you are using?

    I am using an Anycubic i3 Mega 3D Printer with PLA.

    Reply
  • May 1, 2018 at 12:46 am
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    Thanks heaps for the help!!!

    Reply
  • May 8, 2018 at 9:33 pm
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    Supper helpful

    Reply
  • May 22, 2018 at 11:00 pm
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    Thanks for the video. I'm just starting out and this info helps out a lot.

    Reply
  • July 11, 2018 at 6:37 pm
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    Thanks for sharing 😀👍

    Reply
  • August 7, 2018 at 10:15 pm
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    hi can i ask you a question : how can we not print the base for my 3d printer

    Reply
  • August 29, 2018 at 1:54 am
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    Thanks!

    Reply
  • August 30, 2018 at 3:32 pm
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    Great tips! Thank you!

    Reply
  • September 13, 2018 at 9:04 am
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    1:29 Boogers lol

    Reply
  • October 11, 2018 at 8:02 am
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    I cant get my printer to stick pla to the bed at all! i have a heated bed and everything

    Reply
  • October 11, 2018 at 11:02 pm
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    Sanded glass works very well for me.(using PETG)

    Reply
  • October 20, 2018 at 1:17 am
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    for a vegan alternative i like to use some sage and thyme, crushed up and mixed in with a little bit of avocado oil, the hair of a homeless gypsie and the toenail clippings of a tasmanian devil, cooked on oven bake at high temperatures for roughly 20 minutes, then gently rub the mixture into the extruder, the rest is up to you!

    Reply
  • November 1, 2018 at 12:15 am
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    I've got an Ender 3 and have run into a rather unique issue. With the Stock bed material. I can't get the printed parts off of it. Do you have any suggestions other than a hammer and a chisel?

    Reply
  • November 21, 2018 at 8:09 pm
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    Level you bed perfectly, for PLA heat bed to 60° and nozzle to 196°, print on glass. That's all! On my CR10S prints come out perfectly. No glue nor tape.

    Reply
  • December 6, 2018 at 9:52 pm
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    This was invaluable to me. I received my first 3D printer two days ago and it wasn't until watching THIS video that I managed to get my first successful print. THANK YOU.

    Reply
  • December 18, 2018 at 12:16 pm
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    Where can we get the printakit now?

    Reply
  • December 20, 2018 at 10:20 pm
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    you're a life saver, I've been printing for about a year now but not a lot. I've been using a piece of paper to level the bed but I used a thicker piece of paper almost like card (0.15mm) and it worked a charm, I think my bed is warped which doesn't help, but I've been using z offset to try and get perfect layers but I've just done this without an offset and its worked great!

    Reply
  • December 29, 2018 at 6:39 am
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    Boogers……. LOL

    Reply
  • January 6, 2019 at 9:46 am
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    Thanks Thomas. I've been having trouble with my Ender 3 for the last couple of weeks after 2 months of no problems. I'll try out your test prints to see what I can do about it.

    Reply
  • January 6, 2019 at 4:08 pm
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    Can you give me your Slic3r settings for the Prusa I3 Mk III? I have a TERRIBLE time with my 1st layer adhesion.

    Reply
  • January 12, 2019 at 4:06 pm
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    First print (the sample dog) was basically perfect. Second print – NOTHING worked. Tried 3 different surface types (default pad, Creality 3D glass, Lowe’s mirror tiles), cleaned with alcohol, tried glue sticks, hairspray, repeatedly leveled the bed – first layer kept curling up.

    What finally worked was increasing the bed temp by 10 degrees to 70, increasing the initial layer line width to 150 percent, increasing the filament flow and reducing the initial layer speed.

    Reply
  • January 15, 2019 at 2:38 pm
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    super,help me ,thanks

    Reply
  • February 6, 2019 at 5:27 am
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    You have a great voice and lab space … but the video didnt focus but 10% on adhesive ways such as hairspray … do u suggest clue tape or glass direct ….. i just think u left a lot out that other videos covered ….. theres a light adhesive at lowes or any store like that which is amazing and fixed all prints ….

    But last ….. Whether you use ABS or PLA matters as well …

    Reply
  • February 8, 2019 at 6:04 pm
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    Prints start out ok but the corners lift during the overnight print.Prusa Mk3

    Reply
  • February 14, 2019 at 5:23 pm
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    Some printers actually do have a sensor so they can detect when the nozzle is touching the bed.

    Reply
  • February 18, 2019 at 1:20 am
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    Thank you for helping

    Reply
  • March 3, 2019 at 7:01 am
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    Nice explanation. It helps me.

    Reply
  • March 9, 2019 at 12:20 pm
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    Or you can just install a "Stinger" which does touch the bed surface….then forget the glue and prayers…

    Reply
  • March 17, 2019 at 7:06 pm
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    My bed heat was default at 60, I switched to 64. Also preheating the bed before calibrating, small change but sticks every time.

    Reply
  • March 26, 2019 at 2:03 am
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    my problem is that I get good adhesion of first ten or twenty layers but with each next corners of my print detach slowly and raise up. 50 layers and middle of the print also detaches and print fails. what do I do wrong. It seems like some warping goes on in my print. I have 10 mm alu heated bed at 60 deg and print with PLA.

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  • April 4, 2019 at 12:53 am
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    I've almost got it printing perfectly, but the initial layer doesn't have adhesion until about 3 inches into the print. It's infuriating, I feel like tossing the bloody thing out the window. I'm going to try your suggestions Mr. Sanladerer and if it helps I'll give you the credit for it. Till then wish me luck.

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  • April 9, 2019 at 7:40 am
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    this is exactly what I was looking for!

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  • April 28, 2019 at 4:20 am
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    printer boogers…LOL nice ..

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  • May 8, 2019 at 12:57 pm
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    When printing an object with a large square surface, and printer moves diagonally to fill, i get filament rising slightly between lines – like a landscape. I suspect this is due to filament being squished out and pushing the previous line which then rises. I am going to try following fix/calibration: Set first layer thickness, e.g. 0.2mm. Start printing, stop when a line has been laid. Use a micrometer to measure thickness of line – then live adjust difference to get precisely 0.2mm thickness in next print. Repeat and remeasure to take into account material squished upward first run. Then print the part. This should make the material squish the exact extrusion width and produce a smooth surface. Final factor is extrusion multiplier, this has to be correctly calibrated for this to work since otherwise the width will differ even if layer height is perfect. Suggest printing a tall H (10mm) where middle measures 1mm in cad, with two perimiters each 0.5mm. Measure thickness with micrometer and calibrate the difference as this indicates over/under extrusion. Agreed anyone?

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  • May 24, 2019 at 9:03 pm
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    I would like you to do a video for PLA I have a Dremel 3-D 40 with a non-heated bed and have trouble with some PLA’s adhering to the painters tape and some stick with no problem I’m wondering if there’s a difference between premium PLA and regular PLA when it comes to non-heated beds and if I can use glue on top of painters tape to make it stick better or just making the first layer go slower or what I can do I want to experiment but not waste a lot filament because I am doing this with school materials

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  • July 5, 2019 at 9:56 am
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    Going to try this today, I've been struggling when I went from pla which worked perfect everytime to petg, but I see where this makes sense. Thank you!

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  • July 7, 2019 at 3:28 am
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    I have the prusa print that you used and I could never get anything to stick to it so I used painters tape and I wipe it down with a towel after every print and it works great!

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  • July 28, 2019 at 2:11 pm
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    If anyone has a ender 3 what settings do you use to make the fillment stick to the build platform.

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  • September 1, 2019 at 3:36 pm
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    To get the prints to stick I set the bed all the way to 80° just to get it to stick.

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