Hey, guys. So today I’m here with the TeraFlex 2.5-inch
ST2 Suspension Lift Kit with 2.1 Falcon Monotube Shocks, fitting all 2018 and newer four-door
JL Wranglers. So adding a lift to your Wrangler or upgrading
your suspension can offer you a number of different benefits, including leveling out
the rake in your hood and creating a more aggressive stance. It’s also gonna add some performance for the
trail, some very comfortable street driving while also opening up a lot of room in the
wheel well for larger wheels and tires. So this lift kit by TeraFlex is gonna do all
of that and it’s also going to be a very inclusive kit that comes with everything that you need
to accomplish a mild height on your JL. So this is going to come with a high-performance
shock. It’s also gonna come with front lower control
arms to make sure that you don’t get any weird driving characteristics once you have lifted
your Wrangler and kind of screwed up your caster angles and this is also gonna do a
really good job at creating a perfect blend between street and trail performance. So like I said, this is going to be a very
inclusive kit and it is going to come with all of the odds and ends that you need to
get that height on your Wrangler and even accommodate for a couple of different tire
sizes. Now, speaking of tire sizes on a Sport and
a Sahara, this is going to accommodate up to a 35-inch tire and as for the Rubicon with
a higher fender flare, you will be able to fit on a 37-inch tire. So as for 33s on all three models, they may
look a little bit small in the wheel well, but they’re gonna give you a lot of room for
more up-travel and articulation off road. Now, for the Sport and the Sahara, I would
recommend a 35-inch tire. However, if you do put on a 37, this does
come with the bump stops in order to accommodate for that larger tire size, but you may get
some rubbing from wheelock to wheelock and you may have tire to fender to contact if
you don’t put on those bump stop extensions. Now, as for a 35-inch tire on a Rubicon, it
maybe the same case for a 33-inch tire on the Sport and the Sahara. They may look a little bit smaller, however,
you’re still gonna get a lot of room in the wheel well for better articulation. So as for the Sport and Sahara, a 35-inch
tire is recommended and as for the Rubicon, you will be able to fit up to a 37-inch tire,
but a 35-inch tire is still recommended in my book. So as far as price goes, this is gonna be
roughly $1,600 which puts it at a higher price point. However, I think that’s definitely justified
for what’s included in the kit. Now, when you take a look at lift kits all
across the page, you are going to see lift kits that are on the cheaper or more cost-effective
side and they’re not really going to include a lot of components. They may be for spacers or just include the
bare bones kit. Now, on the other side those more expensive
options, including this are going to include a lot more components and make sure that you’re
really getting everything that you need to get all of that height on your Wrangler and
also accommodate for all of that height in the meantime. So this is going to fall into one of those
kits. This is gonna come with everything that you
need and it’s also going to give you some high quality performance for the street in
the trail like I mentioned before, so I think for $1,600, you’re really getting your money’s
worth out of this lift kit. And not to mention, TeraFlex is a very high
quality brand and they put a lot of thought into their components as far as the design
goes, so overall, $1,600 I think, again, you’re definitely getting your money’s worth. So install’s gonna be a three out of three
renters on the difficulty meter. This will probably take you a day to get this
done in your driveway with some pretty basic hand tools, so speaking of the install, let’s
jump into that now. The tools that I used for my install were
a small and a large pry bar, a trim removal tool, an impact wrench, electric and pneumatic,
a drill, a dead blow, a step bit, a half-inch drill bit, a 10-inch extension, a 5-inch extension,
a 1/2-inch drive and 3/8-inch drive ratchet, a air ratchet, a cutoff wheel, 15/16th, 13/16th,
3.25, 19-millimeter, and 18-millimeter open-ended wrench. Pair of Channellocks, pair of needle nose
pliers, pair of vise grips, couple different sizes of flathead screwdrivers, impact sockets,
deep and shallow chrome sockets, deep and shallow as well as a 6-millimeter Allen socket. So the first step to this lift kit is to get
your Jeep up in the air, whether it be on a jack and jack stands or on a lift like we
have it and then you wanna go ahead and take off the wheels. Now we are gonna be starting in the front. So if you are on a jack and jack stands, jack
up the front of your Wrangler and then take off the front wheels and make sure you chock
the back then we can go ahead and support the axle. Since we’re on a lift here, I have two pole
jacks, but if you’re on the ground, you wanna go ahead and support it with jack stands and
then we can go ahead and take off our sway bar end links. So I’m gonna be using an 18-millimeter deep
socket and an 18-millimeter wrench to do that. So what we can do is do the same thing on
the other side. I am gonna be using a swivel socket just because
there’s not a lot of room over here with the drag link and the tie rod, but it is gonna
be an 18-millimeter. We also don’t need the wrench because this
is going to have a flag nut on the other side. And then we can move our sway bar down so
we can access the top stud. So now we can move up to the top of our sway
bar end link. I did wanna remove the two bottom bolts first
just so we could swing our sway bar out of the way of our frame side track bar bracket,
but I am gonna use a 6-millimeter Allen socket to hold the stud still and an 18-millimeter
wrench to take off the nut there. After our sway bar end links are detached,
what we can do is remove our axle side track bar bolt using a 21-millimeter socket and
I’m also using a 5-inch extension just to clear our drag link. So our next step is to remove our lower shock
bolt. I’m gonna be using an 18-millimeter socket
and wrench. You might wanna put a little bit of pressure
on the axle just to make sure that that shock bolt comes loose. So I’m just gonna use my swivel socket to
remove the rest of the bolt. All right, now we can move to the upper bolt. So our next step is remove the upper shock
bolt. I did peel back the inner fender liner a little
bit because we do have to clear that bolt and I’m gonna use an 18-millimeter swivel
socket to remove that bolt up there. After that bolt’s removed, what we can do
is just remove our shock and do the same thing on the other side. So our next step is to remove this brake line
bracket off of our soft line and totally discard it. So what I’m gonna do is actually make a notch
in the back of here so we can pry it open. So TeraFlex just says to pry it open, but
it is pretty difficult since it is pretty structurally sound. So what I’m gonna do is get our ABS line out
of the way. Just gonna wiggle it out of out of all the
brackets and put it to the side. And then what we can do is bend this up out
of the way, grab a cutoff wheel, make a notch in the back of it, and then we can go ahead
and pry it off. So I’m gonna leave it attached to our control
for now until it gives us trouble. We don’t wanna cut all the way through the
bracket to the soft line, we just wanna make sure that we make a notch so it’s easier to
pry it back. All right. So once it has a decent notch in it, what
we’re gonna do is take a pair of Channellocks and I am going to try to pry this open. Once the bracket’s pried open enough, we can
slip the soft line out and then remove the whole bracket from our control arm with a
15-millimeter socket. So we’re almost ready to drop our axle, but
before we do that, I wanna make sure that our brake lines and our breather hose are
okay when we do that. So I’m gonna take a trim removal tool and
remove the clips that are holding our breather tube into our frame and our brake line bracket
so we can slide it down on the frame, make sure it’s not being maxed out. So another thing before we wanna drop our
axle, this connector in the back has to be taken out. So I’m just going to take a trim removal tool,
pull that tab back so we can disconnect that. And then this is going to be connected by
clips as well, so I’m gonna take the same trim removal tool and remove it from the axle
as well as the frame. There’s also gonna be one that is on the upper
control arm we can take out. So last but not least, before we drop our
axle, I am going to remove this brake line bracket just to make sure that it’s not maxed
out. I’m using a 10-millimeter socket and we can
just unhook it from the frame. Then you can do the same thing on the other
side. So what we can do next after everything’s
disconnected from our axle is start to lower it down. So after our axle’s low enough, what we can
do is just pop our spring out of the retainer at the bottom and go ahead and remove it. So our next step is to remove our front lower
control arms. I’m gonna be using a 15/16th-inch wrench for
the nut side and a 21-millimeter socket for the bolt head side. All right. Once that bolt’s removed, we could head up
to the other side of our control arm. So we’re gonna use the same 15/16th-inch wrench
and 21-millimeter socket to remove that top bolt. However, I would be mindful that once you
loosen this up, the control arm will fall out of place. I’m just gonna put my shoulder there to brace
it. Last but not least, before we install our
new suspension, what we need to do is take out our factory bump stops and there are gonna
be tabs around the jounce tube that hold that bump stop in. So if it does not wiggle out right away, what
you can do is take a flathead screwdriver and kind of pry it away from that tab. Then same thing for the other side. So before we go ahead and install our new
suspension system on our Wrangler, I did wanna tell you guys a little bit more about it and
what key benefits that you’re getting from the TeraFlex suspension over your factory
components. Now, right off the bat, this is gonna be a
big upgrade overall. You’re not only lifting your Wrangler, but
you also are upgrading a lot of its performance as well. So starting off with the big key component
that is really gonna give you all of your ride quality out of your Wrangler, and that’s
the shocks. So you really have two schools of thought
when it comes to shocks, you have a hydraulic shock and a gas charge shock. So a hydraulic shock is what your factory
shock is gonna be, and that’s going to give you a very comfortable and a fluid ride. And it’s perfect for a daily driving and a
light trail use application. However, when you start to go on harder trails,
it can be susceptible to shock fade over time, which is cavitation or foaming forming inside
the shock body, which will induce shock fade. And that is going to be basically a squishy
shock and you’re not going to get some good ride quality out of that. So a gas charge shock on the other hand, like
the Falcon monotube 2.1 is going to increase all of that performance so it’s going to reduce
shock fade over time. So it is gonna be a little bit stiffer than
a hydraulic shock, however, that’s gonna be perfect for daily driving applications where
you wanna get rid of some of that body roll on the street, but it’s also gonna be tuned
perfectly for trail performance, giving you a comfortable ride while you’re bouncing out
around the trails. Now, this is going to be street and trail
performance, so it has that perfect split. They are not adjustable, they are perfectly
tuned for that split between street and trail and they’re also going to be incredibly durable. So they’re made of a 6061-T6 precipitation-hardened
aluminum alloy shock body that’s going to be able to take any hits on the trail if it
has to, and the aluminum shock body is also going to do a really good job at dispersing
any heat, keeping the shock performing at its highest efficiency instead of the factory
shock body, which is steel that doesn’t do a great job at heat dissipation. And it’s also gonna have a 3.25-inch chrome
hardened shaft, which is going to reduce any bustling and also be able to take a hit. So the shocks are gonna be one of those big
key components that you see out of this lift kit. However, there are also a lot of other components
that are gonna do the job as well. So you also have your springs which are gonna
be a lot taller than your factory springs, giving you all of the height out of this lift
kit. And then you are gonna have some key components
that are going to accommodate for that extra height, including your sway bar end links
that you’re getting with this kit that are going to be of a factory design and you also
are getting extended bump stops to accommodate for larger wheels and tires. So the other big thing that I really like
about this lift kit is the fact that it comes with front lower control arms. So those are going to correct some of the
pastor and pinion angles that we messed up when we started lifting our Wrangler. And that’s also going to eliminate any weird
driving characteristics that we would have gotten if we left on our front lower control
arms from the factory. So overall, this is a big upgrade and you
also are getting a lot of performance out of this lift kit in comparison the factory
components. So enough about these on the table, let’s
go ahead and install our new lift kit. So our first step to our new suspension is
to install our new control arm. So we’re going to put this in at the top mount,
secure down our factory bolt, but we wanna make sure that we tighten it down once the
Jeep is on its own weight so we can make sure that the bushing is okay. I’m gonna thread on the nut on the other side. Then once that’s secure, what we can do is
connect the lower mount, but you’re gonna need somebody to pry on the axle to line up
the controller inside the mount. So we can repeat that process on the other
side. So our next step before we put our spring
in is to install our bump stop. Now, this is going to be the skinnier bump
stop and we are going take a couple of blocks of wood here and just press this into our
jounce tube. So I’m just gonna raise up the axle. I also did put a little bit of grease on the
bump stop just make it easier to go into the jounce tube. All right, after the bump stop’s set in place,
we can just do the same thing on the other side and then we can install our new spring. So after you’ve installed your bump stops,
you will need to install the lower bump stop extension if you have a 35 or 37-inch tire
that you’re looking to pair with your Wrangler. Now, there is a tire clearance guide in the
TeraFlex instructions and it will differ depending on if you have a Rubicon, Sahara, and Sport
as well as the tire size that you’re looking to put on your Wrangler. Now, we’re gonna be running under a 33-inch
tire, we’re gonna be running our stock wheels and tires, so we actually do not need to install
these bumps stop extensions. So what we can do next is install our springs. So now we can take our front springs and get
around the jounce tube and line them up in the spring perch, making sure that the pigtail
sits in the spring retainer correctly and we can do the same thing to the other side. So our next step is to install our shocks
and we’re going to install these exactly how our factory ones came out with our factory
bolts. So after you’ve cleared the liner and threaded
in the bolt, what we can do is tighten that back down with an 18-millimeter socket. I’m gonna use a swivel socket since it is
pretty high up. So now that we lined up the bottom of our
shock with our shock mount, what we can do is secure it down with the factory bolt. You may have to tinker with the height of
the axle, however, I would recommend that you keep an eye on your lift points. So after you have the bolt through and the
nut threaded on, what we can do is tighten this down with an 18-millimeter wrench and
socket. Again, I’m gonna be using a swivel socket
because I don’t have a lot of space. You can do the same thing on the other side. So our next step is to install our sway bar
end links in the front. Now, these are going to be the shorter two
out of the four that we can thread on the nylon lock nut and tighten that down with
the same 18-millimeter wrench and 6-millimeter Allen socket that we used to take off the
factory sway bar end links. So you might have to position your new sway
bar end link into the passenger side mount with a dead blow or a mallet. But once it is in place, we can take our factory
bolt and our factory flag nut and thread that in place. So after that’s threaded into the flag nut,
what we can do is tighten that down with the same 18-millimeter socket. Again, I’m gonna use a swivel socket. And we can do the same thing for the other
side. So last but not least, we’re just going to
tie up a couple loose ends. We’re going to reinstall our brake line brackets
onto our frame using the factory hardware. And then tighten that down with a 10-millimeter
socket. Last but not least, we need to make sure that
this is plugged back in so we can plug that back into the solenoid and set our clip and
then we can go ahead and head to the back. So now that we’re finished up at the front,
we can support our rear axle and start with our shock. So we’re gonna need an 18-millimeter wrench
and socket to take out our lower shock bolt. So in order to access our top shock bolt,
what we need to do is remove this trim piece. There are three bolts that are holding it
in. I’m gonna use an 8-millimeter socket to remove
those. So now the top shock bolt is accessible, we
can take that out using an 18-millimeter swivel socket. And then we can repeat that process on the
other side. So next, we can move onto our sway bar end
link, starting with our bottom bolt. I’m gonna be using an 18-millimeter socket
and wrench. So our next step, just like the front, is
to remove the top part of our sway bar end link. I’m gonna be using that same 6-millimeter
Allen socket and an 18-millimeter wrench to take that nut off. Then we can repeat that process on the other
side. So after we have our sway bar end links out,
we do want to disconnect our track bar from the axle side, and I’m gonna be using a 21-millimeter
socket. So our next step is going to be to remove
our brake line bracket from our frame. Again, I’m gonna use a 10-millimeter socket. This is just gonna give us some slack when
we drop our axle. So while we’re over on the passenger side,
we can take out our stock bump stop. We’re gonna do the same thing with a flathead
screwdriver and pry on the tab there. We can wiggle it out of the jounce tube. So our next step is to drop our axle and takeout
our springs, but we wanna make sure that our breather hose is not being maxed out. So I’m just going to quickly remove that by
just pinching this clamp with a pair of pliers and wiggling it off of our axle. So what we have to do next is reroute our
e-brake cable underneath our crossmember here, but first, we have to take off the bracket
that’s holding it to the body of the Wrangler. So I’m gonna use a 13-millimeter socket as
well as a 10-inch extension to reach up in between the fuel lines and remove that bolt
and that bracket. So after we’ve removed that bracket, what
we can do is unhook our e-brake cable. I’m going to use a pair of pliers to pull
this out a little bit from the hub here while simultaneously unhooking the line. So our next step is to remove this from this
bracket here. Now, this is going to have a couple of different
tabs on it that we have to depress in order to slide this back and out. So I’m gonna use a couple of flathead screwdrivers,
depress those tabs, and wiggle the line out. Then, we can just route this above the fuel
lines and underneath of our cross bar and our fuel lines. So after it’s rerouted underneath, we can
just go ahead and reconnect our e-brake cable. So now we can install our spring, making sure
that we have our factory isolator on top and then we can do the other side and raise up
our axle. So you can do the same thing for the other
side and we will have to raise up the axle in order to get this to sit in the place correctly. So at this point, if you are installing your
bump stop extensions, you will need the bump stop extension for the backplate here as well
as the spacers and the plate as well as the threaded nut plate. So what essentially you’re gonna do is install
this on the bottom, put your spacer or however many spacers you need between and then your
bump stop extension on top, put your threaded nut plate inside the bump stop extension,
and then you can put bolts up through the top and thread it into place. Now, again, we don’t need to install these,
so we’re gonna move on to our next step. So before we go ahead and install our shocks
and our sway bars, we do want this room open in order to install our track bar relocation
bracket. So what I’m gonna do is just place this down
over our factory track bar bracket. Actually gonna take a dead blow and make sure
that that’s in position because we have to drill two holes on the outside. So what I’m gonna do to make sure that this
is as accurate as possible is just place a bolt, the provided bolt that TeraFlex gives
you brew the track bar bracket and the factory track bar bracket and then we can make sure
that this is lined up correctly. So what I’m gonna do is take a marker and
mark where the holes are. So then we can take this bracket off. So now that the holes are marked, we can go
ahead and drill two half-inch holes. Now, I am gonna mark the center of the hole
with a center punch and I am gonna drill a pilot hole for each of these for our step
bit. So I have a 3/16th-inch drill bit and I’m
gonna drill two pilot holes. So now that both holes are drilled, what we
can do is reinstall our bracket. Then we can install our provided hardware. So now we can tighten down our hardware with
a 16-millimeter socket and an 18-millimeter wrench. So now we can install our sleeve inside our
bracket at the factory location with our provided bolt and washer. And we can also attach our track bar at our
top location with the provided bolt. So if it doesn’t line up in the back, what
I recommend to do is just grab a pry bar and push up on the track bar, that should kind
of straighten it out and then you can take a dead blow and push the bolt through. So what we can do next is tighten down this
bottom bolt in the crush sleeve inside with a 18-millimeter socket and a 13/6th-inch wrench
for the nut side on the back mount. So we will be tightening down the top bolt
on the ground while the Jeep is on its own weight so we don’t tear the bushing. So now we can head to our sway bar end links. So our next step is to install our sway bar
end link. Now, we’re gonna put the standard bushing
at the top and our ball and joint bushing down at the bottom. Then we can take our factory bolt, put that
through our sway bar end link into our sway bar and then thread that into place. Once that’s tightened down, what we can do
is thread on the nylon lock nut down at the bottom. We can tighten that up with a 6-millimeter
Allen socket and a 19-millimeter wrench. Then we can repeat that process on the other
side. So before we install our shocks, we’re gonna
reattach our brake line brackets using our factory bolt and I’m gonna tighten that down
with a 10-millimeter socket. Then we can do the same thing on the other
side and then install our shocks. So next, we can install our shock in the factory
location with the factory bolt. Then we can tighten that down with an 18-millimeter
socket. So while we’re here, we can reinstall our
plastic trim piece. Then we can tighten them down with our 8-millimeter
socket. Then do the same thing on the other side. So once you have the shock in place, you can
go ahead and thread on the nut and tighten it down with an 18-millimeter socket and wrench. Same thing for the other side. So our last step is to re-install our axle
side track bar bolt. Now, you will have to have somebody jump in
the driver seat and turn the wheel left to right to line this up in order to get that
bolt in. But once it’s in and the flag nut is on the
other side, we can tighten it down with a 21-millimeter socket. And I’m also using an extension to clear the
drag link again. So we can tighten up our control arm since
the Jeep is on its own weight using a 15/16th-inch wrench and a 21-millimeter socket. Last but not least, we wanna make sure that
our track bar bolt is tightened down since the Jeep is on its own weight. So I’m gonna use an 18-millimeter socket and
a half-inch drive ratchet as well as a 13/16th-inch wrench. So after you’re finished tightening down your
control arms as well as your track bars, I would recommend to get an alignment as well
as torque everything down to spec. So that’s gonna wrap it up for my review and
install. Make sure you like and subscribe, and for
more videos and products like this, always keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.

Jeep Wrangler JL 4-Door Teraflex 2.5 in. Sport S/T2 Lift Kit w/ Falcon Shocks Review & Install

4 thoughts on “Jeep Wrangler JL 4-Door Teraflex 2.5 in. Sport S/T2 Lift Kit w/ Falcon Shocks Review & Install

  • September 20, 2019 at 5:30 pm
    Permalink

    Shop this Teraflex 2.5 in. Sport S/T2 Lift Kit w/ Falcon Shocks: https://terrain.jp/2k2wJZJ

    Subscribe for Daily Jeep Videos: http://terrain.jp/SubscribeXTyt

    Reply
  • September 20, 2019 at 6:12 pm
    Permalink

    why wouldn't you show the jeep at the end, maybe next to a stock height one, wth, lol

    Reply
  • September 20, 2019 at 8:07 pm
    Permalink

    $1600 bucks… for that? Wtf

    Reply
  • September 20, 2019 at 11:07 pm
    Permalink

    This channel has quickly become my favorite to watch!! Great work! Please keep it going I learn something new everytime!!

    Reply

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